device will be overheating while charging with charger or powerbank что это значит
battery overheat warning when charging
Comments
yes, i will do that for sure, it happens while charging
I am also facing the exact same issue. I just unboxed my new phone, there was a notification for an update so I did it. Now while charging it’s constant beeping so when I checked it said charging stopped because battery is too hot. I wanted to know whether it’s my device only or is it a software issue.
I am also facing the exact same issue. I just unboxed my new phone, there was a notification for an update so I did it. Now while charging it’s constant beeping so when I checked it said charging stopped because battery is too hot. I wanted to know whether it’s my device only or is it a software issue.
I am also facing the exact same issue. I just unboxed my new phone, there was a notification for an update so I did it. Now while charging it’s constant beeping so when I checked it said charging stopped because battery is too hot. I wanted to know whether it’s my device only or is it a software issue.
I am also facing the exact same issue. I just unboxed my new phone, there was a notification for an update so I did it. Now while charging it’s constant beeping so when I checked it said charging stopped because battery is too hot. I wanted to know whether it’s my device only or is it a software issue.
I am also facing the exact same issue. I just unboxed my new phone, there was a notification for an update so I did it. Now while charging it’s constant beeping so when I checked it said charging stopped because battery is too hot. I wanted to know whether it’s my device only or is it a software issue.
I am also facing the exact same issue. I just unboxed my new phone, there was a notification for an update so I did it. Now while charging it’s constant beeping so when I checked it said charging stopped because battery is too hot. I wanted to know whether it’s my device only or is it a software issue.
Hi,
I just bought 6z two days ago, and facing the same issue. The battery is overheating and the charging is stopping because of that. Would like to mention that during charging the phone is idle, room temp around 23_25 degrees celsius. Below is the message that I am getting during charging. Also noticed that the message pops up when the battery is charged between 60%-70%. Any help would be awesome.
Thanks,
Alex 
Question: Q: iPhone 12 hot while charging
Just got my new 12 pro and it is getting pretty hot while charging even while connected. On my Anker wireless charger which worked just fine for the XS I used before its even worse
Is it just me and I have a problem or is it a general issue and I should not worry too much
Posted on Oct 26, 2020 5:38 AM
Posted on Nov 3, 2020 4:53 PM
Helpful answers
I might know what the problem is. It was the same for me, but after a while it just behaves normal now just getting warm. Have you already initiated the restore from backup on your new phone. Looks like initially it is doing a lot of work in the background, like rebuilding hash tables etc. loading pictures. This plus charging makes it hot from what I can see.
Nov 3, 2020 10:39 PM
Charging mine for the first time it got hot! And have you tried to put your ear up to the back of the phone or even the front while charging? You can hear little sparks and crackling and noises. They shouldn’t be getting even warm.
Nov 12, 2020 1:14 PM
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It gets warm not hot.
Oct 26, 2020 5:47 AM
Oct 29, 2020 11:13 PM
My iPhone 11 Pro used to have issues with my car wireless charger until the manufacturer replaced it. Today, my iPhone 12 Pro overheated in it to the point that it threw the “Your iPhone must cool down” dialog and was unusable until it cooled. It was in the transparent MagSafe case at the time. I took it out and cooled it in the AC draft.
I note that it didn’t seem to really charge, either. It was less than 50% when I got home, even though I drove with it in the charger for
40 minutes. Any ideas for troubleshooting?
I might know what the problem is. It was the same for me, but after a while it just behaves normal now just getting warm. Have you already initiated the restore from backup on your new phone. Looks like initially it is doing a lot of work in the background, like rebuilding hash tables etc. loading pictures. This plus charging makes it hot from what I can see.
Nov 3, 2020 10:39 PM
Charging mine for the first time it got hot! And have you tried to put your ear up to the back of the phone or even the front while charging? You can hear little sparks and crackling and noises. They shouldn’t be getting even warm.
Nov 12, 2020 1:14 PM
Initially it was getting heated but later it is not getting so much hot. I haven’t heard any crackling noises, thankfully!
Nov 12, 2020 9:58 PM
Mines doing the same thing.
Nov 15, 2020 8:15 PM
Same here, it’s the second day with my iPhone 12, charged it just for 10 minutes, the phone as well as the adapter got heated and the phone got heated from the left side, switched the side of the adapter but the issue is still there☹️. The adapter is iPhone 12’s manual.
Nov 17, 2020 7:11 PM
Omg I am hearing the crackling sounds in mine too.
Nov 18, 2020 11:07 PM
Mine was doing that. I have the 20w block and I just traded my 12 for another one cuz it was hot. I think it’s the block, I’m going to get a 18w. For now I’m using the same charger as my iPhone 8
Nov 19, 2020 8:03 AM
I just traded mine in. Don’t use the 20w block. Use the same charger and block for your old iPhone or get a 18w block. 20w is too much I just traded my 12 in for another one cuz it was getting hot charging
Nov 19, 2020 8:04 AM
The wattage of the adapter isn’t the issue. If the phone can’t handle high wattage input, it’s an issue with the phone.
Nov 19, 2020 8:06 AM
Mine is getting very warm during charging too. I put my ear to the back and can hear a sort of whining/crackling noise that stops immediately when I unplug the phone from the charger. My theory is it has to do with the difference in using Qi or MagSafe to charge.
My big question is what does this mean for CarPlay users? CarPlay charges your phone, so it continuously gets hotter. If someone were to take a 3-4 hour trip and have their phone plugged in for CarPlay directions that whole time, I imagine the phone would be way overheated by the end.
If your iPhone or iPod touch won’t charge
If your battery won’t charge or charges slowly, or if you see an alert message, learn what to do.
Plug into power
To charge your device, follow these steps:
Wall power outlet
Plug your USB charging cable into a USB power adapter, then plug the adapter into the wall.
Computer
Plug your charging cable into a USB 2.0 or 3.0 port on a computer that’s on and not in sleep mode. Don’t use the USB ports on your keyboard.
Power accessory
Plug your cable into a powered USB hub, docking station, or other Apple-certified accessory.
If you’re trying to charge wirelessly with an iPhone 8 or later, first make sure that you can charge with the USB adapter and cable that came with your device. If that works, then get help with wireless charging. For a third-party accessory, check that it’s Apple certified.
As your device charges, you’ll see a lightning bolt beside the battery icon in the status bar, or a large battery icon on your Lock screen.
My device charges slowly or won’t charge
My device stopped charging at 80 percent
I see Accessory Not Supported or Certified
If your device charges slowly or won’t charge
Follow these steps and try again after each:
If your device stopped charging at 80 percent
Your iPhone might get slightly warmer while it charges. To extend the lifespan of your battery, if the battery gets too warm, software might limit charging above 80 percent. Your iPhone will charge again when the temperature drops. Try moving your iPhone and charger to a cooler location.
iOS 13 and later uses Optimized Battery Charging to slow the rate of battery aging by reducing the time that your iPhone spends fully charged. Your iPhone uses on-device machine learning to understand your daily charging routine so that it can wait until you need to use your iPhone to finish charging past 80 percent.* Optimized Battery Charging is active only when your iPhone predicts that it will be connected to a charger for a long period of time.
* Information regarding your charging routine is stored only on your iPhone. The information isn’t included in backups and isn’t shared with Apple.
If an alert says that your accessory isn’t supported or certified
These alerts can appear for a few reasons: Your iOS device might have a dirty or damaged charging port, your charging accessory is defective, damaged, or non Apple-certified, or your USB charger isn’t designed to charge devices. Follow these steps:
What to Do if Your Laptop Is Plugged In But Not Charging
If your laptop is plugged in but not getting any juice, these steps can help you troubleshoot.
How many times has this happened to you? You’re minding your own business on your laptop, then suddenly the computer informs you the battery is nearly dead. You then have to rush to find your charger and plug it in before everything goes dark.
Once the power is connected, you should be good to go, but sometimes you plug in the AC adapter, and you get nothing. No glowing lights, no brightened display, and no «battery charging» icon in the corner. What could be wrong?
There are numerous ways to take care of your battery, but between the wall outlet and your computer there are several things that can fail. Some are easy to fix yourself with a software tweak or a new battery, but other problems may require a visit to a repair shop, or even a full-blown system replacement.
Knowing which is which can save you hours of frustration and hundreds of dollars in repairs. By taking an inside-out approach, you can quickly narrow down where the problem originates and find the most economical solution. Here’s how to troubleshoot the issue.
Are You Plugged In?
It sounds silly, but you need to make sure the laptop is actually plugged in. This is a major reason a computer may not even start. No software tweak or hardware repair can make a disconnected laptop magically power on. So before you do anything else, ensure that the AC outlet and laptop plugs are firmly seated.
Check the AC adapter brick and verify that any removable cords are fully inserted. Next, make sure the battery is properly seated in its compartment, and that there is nothing wrong with either the battery or laptop contact points.
Finally, find out whether or not the problem even has anything to do with the laptop at all. Try plugging the power cord into a different outlet to see if you’ve got a short or a blown fuse. If it’s plugged into a surge protector or power strip, take it out and plug it directly into the wall.
At this point, if it still doesn’t work, we’ve determined that it’s not just user error causing the problem. There is a real issue with powering the laptop; now it’s simply a matter of figuring out where the problem may be. That begins with eliminating where it isn’t. We’ll start with the most common and easy-to-address issues.
Lose the Battery
First, check the integrity of the battery. If your laptop comes with a removable battery, take it out, and hold the power button down for about 15 seconds to drain any residual power from the device. Then, with the battery still removed, plug in the power cable and turn the laptop on.
If the laptop powers on properly, that means the power adapter is working properly and the problem is likely a bum battery. You can always re-install the battery and try again—maybe the battery was just poorly seated.
If your laptop doesn’t have a visible battery compartment on the bottom, it may be built into the laptop (like most Macs are), and you’ll either have to open it up yourself or take it to a repair specialist to test the battery.
Make Sure You’re Using the Right USB-C Port
USB-C is a popular cross-platform standard for connecting peripherals, transferring data, and charging your battery. The new standard allows for thinner devices, but might also cause some confusion. Some manufacturers have opted to make certain USB-C ports data-only, so they won’t charge your device.
In some cases, you may find a device with two USB-C ports: one that can be used for charging or data transfer, and one that is only designated for data transfer. If you run into a non-charging issue, make sure you are connected to the correct USB-C port. You may even be able to see a little icon on the side that indicates which port is meant for charging.
Is Your Charger Powerful Enough?
Similarly, just because a power adapter fits into your laptop’s charging port doesn’t mean it’s powerful enough to charge your computer. This goes for any type of charger, but it’s an especially common problem with laptops that charge over USB-C—you can technically plug in any USB-PD charger, but some may have too low a wattage to properly charge.
Check the wattage of the charger that came with your laptop—if it came with a 45W charger, you’ll probably want to stick with a 45W charger (or higher) to power it, and so on. A lower-wattage charger might keep the battery from draining while you use it, but it won’t be enough to charge it any higher. If it does manage to recharge your computer, it will do so much slower than usual. If you’re going to use a third-party USB-C charger, try to use one that’s been certified by the USB-IF.
For laptops that don’t charge over USB-C, I generally recommend sticking with the manufacturer’s official charger. Cheap, no-brand chargers can be low quality or even dangerous, so if you have one of those, try charging with the laptop’s official charger instead.
Breaks, Burnouts, and Shorts
Feel along the length of the power cord, bending and flexing as you go, to check for any kinks or breaks. Check the ends for any broken connections, such as plugs pulling loose or spots that may have gotten chewed by a pet or caught in a vacuum cleaner.
Inspect the AC brick. Is it discolored? Are any parts warped or expanded? Give it a sniff—if it smells like burnt plastic, that’s likely where the trouble lies. You may need to replace the power connector. Contact the manufacturer and see if they’ll send you a new one under warranty. (Or, barring that, if they’ll sell you one directly.)
Check the Connector
When you plug in the laptop’s power connector, the connection should be fairly solid. If there’s dust or other buildup inside the jack, it may not be able to make a clean connection. Try cleaning out the jack with a toothpick, and plugging in again.
In more extreme cases, you may find the jack is wobbly or loose, or gives when it should stay firm. This could mean the power jack has broken inside the chassis, and you’ll need to take your computer to a repair shop (or, if you’re comfortable opening it up, doing some at-home repairs).
Beat the Heat
Batteries are susceptible to heat, so if your laptop is overheating, that could cause a problem. As the temperature rises, the battery sensor may misfire, telling the system that the battery is either fully charged or missing completely, causing the charging problems. You may even find that your system shuts down to prevent overheating a battery and causing a fire.
These problems become far more likely when dealing with older laptops, which have lower-quality cooling than more modern devices—or if you tend to use the laptop on the couch or in bed, which can block the cooling vents. Turn the system off, give it some time to cool down, and take a moment to make sure the air vents are free of dust and unobstructed by blankets.
Check Your Settings in Windows or macOS
In Windows 10, open the Start menu and search for «Power & Sleep Settings,» then click the Additional power settings link. (On older versions of Windows, open the Control Panel and search for «Power Options.») Click Change Plan Settings and visually check that all are properly set.
Be on the lookout for incorrect settings for the battery, display, and sleep options. For example, your battery settings may cause trouble if you set the computer to shut down when the battery level drops too low or set the low battery level at too high a percentage.
You can also assign actions like sleep and shut down when your lid is closed or the power button is pressed. If these settings have been changed, it’s easy to suspect a power malfunction even though there’s no physical problem with the battery or charging cable. The easiest way to make sure that your settings aren’t causing problems is to restore the power profile to default settings.
Mac users can open System Preferences > Energy Saver, then review your preferences. Mac settings are adjusted with a slider, letting you select the amount of time the computer can sit idle until it goes to sleep. If the interval is too short, you might suspect battery issues when settings are the true culprit.
Don’t forget to check these settings for both battery power and wall power. You may want to revert back to the default settings to see if a change in settings is causing the problem.
Update Your Drivers
Open the Start menu and search for «Device Manager.» Under Batteries, you should see a few items: usually one for the charger and one listed as Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery, though there may be others. Right-click each item and choose Update Driver.
Once the drivers are all up to date, reboot the laptop and plug it in again. If this doesn’t resolve the problem, you may want to download the latest drivers from the manufacturer’s website. You can also try uninstalling Microsoft ACPI Compliant Control Method Battery completely and rebooting, which should prompt Windows to reinstall the driver from scratch.
On a Mac, you’ll need to try resetting the System Management Controller (SMC). For laptops with removable batteries, this is as simple as shutting down power, removing the battery, disconnecting power, and pressing the power button for five seconds. Reinsert the battery, connect power, and fire up the laptop.
For newer Macs with batteries sealed into the chassis, shut down the computer but leave the power adapter connected. With the power off, press and hold the power button while pressing Shift + Control + Option on the left-hand side of the keyboard. Release the keys and power button simultaneously, then attempt to power on the laptop.
Swap Out the Cord and Battery
If the above software tricks don’t work, and you aren’t able to fix the problem with the parts you have on hand, you may have to buy a new battery or power adapter (which one will depend on what you were able to narrow down with the above troubleshooting steps).
You may be able to find a replacement power cable or battery on Amazon, but again, make sure it’s a legitimate part from the original manufacturer. Using third-party replacements for the real thing is never recommended, especially when it comes to power.
Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer directly and order a replacement part, if you can. It will be a little more expensive, but you’ll know you’re getting a quality component.
Problems Inside
When all of your options are exhausted—you’ve tried other power cables and batteries, checked and rechecked your settings, fixed any potential software problems—the problem is likely found inside the machine. This is probably a good time to contact tech support.
Several internal parts can cause problems when they malfunction or fail. Common culprits include a faulty motherboard, damaged charging circuits, and malfunctioning battery sensors. Your particular make and model of laptop will likely have its own unique issues, and a seasoned tech support operator will have seen all of them.
The person you talk to will likely walk you through many of the steps outlined above, but will also be aware of software and hardware issues specific to your configuration, such as what bits of hardware commonly fail.
Like a sick person consulting a doctor, internal problems require a specialist. Contact your manufacturer about what repair options are covered under your warranty, or call up a local computer repair shop.
Типы быстрых зарядок и нюансы используемых кабелей
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Современные смартфоны потребляют намного больше энергии, чем их предшественники: больше быстродействие, больше экран, больше памяти, GPS, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi. Все это прекрасно, однако емкости аккумуляторов за прогрессом не поспевают. В результате многие современные смартфоны держат заряд не более суток. Рано или поздно вы забываете поставить вечером гаджет на зарядку, а утром понимаете, что через 15 минут выходить из дома, а заряда — «на донышке». Что делать? Бежать покупать портативный аккумулятор или можно что-то сделать за эти 15 минут?
Как долго должен заряжаться аккумулятор?
Так получилось, что USB стал стандартом для зарядных устройств всех гаджетов. Но разрабатывался этот стандарт, во-первых, давно, во-вторых, совсем не для этого.
Стандарт USB был разработан еще в 1996 году. Устройства тех лет, питающиеся от разъема USB, зачастую не имели контроллеров питания и могли просто сгореть, получив большой ток. Поэтому в стандарте вплоть до версии 2.0 максимальный ток составлял 500 мА, поэтому заряда смартфона с батарейкой емкостью в 3000 мАч требовалось 7-8 часов, хотя сам аккумулятор вполне мог бы потреблять 1,5 А и зарядиться за 2-3 часа.
Именно поэтому зарядка, идущая в комплекте с гаджетом, зачастую заряжает его намного быстрее — она просто выдает повышенный ток, рассчитанный на конкретный аккумулятор.
Сам стандарт разрабатывался для передачи данных, а не для питания. Разъемы и кабели USB не предназначены для больших токов, так что производители гаджетов столкнулись с неприятностями, начав выпускать такие зарядки с токами до 5А и более. Провода кабеля USB довольно тонкие, сопротивление их высоко. Но с увеличением тока падение напряжения на кабеле и его нагрев стали довольно существенными. Кроме того, появились случаи перегрева тонких контактов разъема. Поэтому большинство обычных зарядный устройств дают на выходе до 2А, а зарядка по-прежнему длится часами.
Что такое быстрая зарядка?
Это зарядка токами 1С и выше, то есть токами, кратными емкости аккумулятора. Например, 1А для емкости 1000 м·Ач и так далее. Поначалу такой режим считался крайне неблагоприятным для литий-ионных батарей. Но со временем ситуация изменилась — зарядка током 1С уже не вызывает заметного снижения ресурса у современных аккумуляторов, а зарядка током в 2С приводит к потере примерно 20 % емкости через 500–800 циклов заряда-разряда. Да, если пользоваться быстрой зарядкой ежедневно, через пару лет вы заметите падение емкости. Но вряд ли из-за этого стоит отказываться от возможности зарядить телефон за полчаса.
Чтобы не было потерь на тонких проводах, режимы быстрой зарядки используют повышенное напряжение в кабеле. ЗУ может выдавать напряжение до 20В, а в гаджете оно понизится до требуемых 5В с соответствующим увеличением тока. Например, если ЗУ обеспечивает напряжение 20В и ток 2А, то на аккумуляторе будут 5В и 8А.
Для сохранения совместимости со старыми ЗУ и компьютерными USB, новым зарядным устройствам пришлось «поумнеть» — теперь они не сразу выдают максимальные ток и напряжение, а только после получения запроса от гаджета. К сожалению, способы «общения» ЗУ и гаджета у каждого производителя свои.
Типы быстрой зарядки
Quick Charge — стандарт компании Qualcomm, поддерживается устройствами, собранными на базе чипсетов Snapdragon, начиная с 2013 г. Максимальный поддерживаемый ток — 3А и 5A в версии 4, напряжение может меняться от 3,6 до 20 В, а также до 22 в версии 3 и до 21 в 4+. Стандарт теоретически обеспечивает до 100 Вт мощности, но практически такая мощность устройствами не поддерживается, а штатные ЗУ выдают всего 18 Вт. Контроль температуры в стандарт не вписан, так что нередки случаи перегрева при быстрой зарядке. Сейчас большинство производителей смартфонов обеспечивают контроль температуры при использовании QC. А стандарт QC 4 имеет полную поддержку протокола Power Delivery.
Adaptive Fast Charging компании Samsung основан на Quick Charge 2 и частично с ним совместим, поэтому заряжать его от ЗУ с поддержкой QC 2 можно, но зарядка идет медленнее, чем от штатного. Контроль температуры есть, так что зарядка безопасна.
Motorola Turbopower компанией Lenovo так же разработан на основе стандарта Quick Charge 2, с которым полностью совместим. Отличия незначительны, основное заключается не в самом стандарте, а в наличии штатного ЗУ Motorola на 25 Вт против 18 Вт у поддерживающих QC 2. По скорости зарядки уступает QC и PD последних версий.
Huawei Super Charge применяется на устройствах Huawei и тоже основан на Quick Charge 2. Напряжение может достигать 5В, ток — 5А, давая в итоге максимальную мощность 25 Вт. По скорости зарядки уступает QC и PD последних версий.
Pump Express разработан компанией MediaTek и поддерживается гаджетами, собранными на базе SoC этого производителя. Он также основан на Quick Charge 2, и полностью с ним совместим. Его мощность ограничена 15 Вт, поэтому на емких аккумуляторах он покажет меньшую скорость зарядки по сравнению с другими стандартами. Зато в Pump Express есть контроль температуры аккумулятора, что значительно повышает безопасность зарядки.
Быстрая зарядка Apple совместима с Power Delivery. ЗУ Apple может выдавать до 87 Вт, что позволяет быстро зарядить не только все модели iPhone, начиная с 8, но и емкие аккумуляторы iPad Pro и MacBook 12.
Oppo Vooc (и основанный на ней Dash Charge) выбиваются из остального ряда — это оригинальные, ни с чем не совместимые стандарты. Используются на устройствах OnePlus и Oppo. Зарядное устройство выдает до 25 Вт мощности. Из-за несовместимости стандартов быстрая зарядка осуществима только с помощью оригинальных зарядного устройства и кабеля.
Power Delivery — наиболее перспективный стандарт быстрой зарядки, разработанный консорциумом USB в 2015 году. Стандарт поддерживает напряжения питания до 20 В и ток до 3А, что в итоге дает до 60 Вт мощности. А наиболее перспективным он считается из-за того, что «встроен» в новый стандарт USB 3.1 и теперь любые устройства, использующие разъем Type-C, должны либо поддерживать Power Delivery, либо смириться с недовольством пользователей, пытающихся заряжать гаджеты от ЗУ с поддержкой PD. Apple и Qualcomm уже выбрали первый вариант.
USB 3.1 + Power Delivery = некоторые проблемы
Теперь «умным и быстрым» ЗУ может быть любое устройство, поддерживающее USB 3.1. Заряжаемое устройство определит возможности заряжающего порта, измерив сопротивление между парой контактов разъема — CC и Vbus. Если порт может выдать максимум 0,9 А, как обычный порт USB 3.0, сопротивление будет равно 56 кОм, 22 кОм «скажут» гаджету, что ЗУ может выдать до 1,5 А, а 10 кОм — 3А.
Но как быть с кабелями-переходниками с Type-C на USB 2.0? У первого — 24 контакта, у второго — всего 4, а тех, между которыми ЗУ должно выставлять сигнальное сопротивление, просто нет. Консорциум USB решил встраивать резисторы прямо внутрь кабеля: 10 кОм в кабеля для мощных ЗУ, 22 кОм — для ЗУ с выходным током 1,5 А, ну и для 0,9 А — 56 кОм.
А если перепутать? Чаще всего — ЗУ не даст максимального тока и зарядка будет идти в разы дольше. Если же ЗУ попытается дать гаджету ток больше, чем оно способно, то может выйти из строя, а в худшем случае — испортить и гаджет.
Масла в огонь подлили китайцы, начав засовывать резисторы 10 кОм во все кабели-переходники с Type-C на USB 2.0. В том числе и в дешевые тонкожильные, неспособные выдержать те 3А, которые он якобы должен пропускать.
Чтобы всем стало совсем «весело», консорциум USB регламентировал установку в кабели Type-C маркирующей микросхемы eMarker, информирующей оба подключенных к нему устройства о возможностях кабеля. Проблема в том, что дорогостоящий кабель с микросхемой eMarker может быстро сгореть на паре ЗУ–гаджет, поддерживающей какой-нибудь стандарт быстрой зарядки, отличной от Power Delivery. eMarker питается от 5В, а тот же QickCharge 2 и все основанные на нем протоколы запросто могут поднять напряжение питающей линии до 18 В.
Вывод один — не используйте для быстрой зарядки «случайные» кабели. Это особенно важно для кабелей с разъемами Type-C, но актуально и для старых разъемов: невооруженным глазом не заметить, что у кабеля сечение жил меньше и разъем контактирует неплотно. В результате зарядка будет идти намного дольше, и это еще не самое худшее: возникающий из-за искрения контактов нагрев может привести к повреждению разъема или вообще к воспламенению прилегающего пластика. Настоятельно рекомендуется не пользоваться для зарядки «чужими» проводами, пусть они и выглядят подходящими.